Erhard loretan biography of michael

Erhard Loretan

Swiss mountaineer (–)

Erhard Loretan

BornApril 28,

Bulle, Switzerland

DiedApril 28,

Grünhorn, Bernese Oberland, Switzerland

Cause&#;of deathMountaineering accident
Occupation(s)Mountaineer, alpine guide
Known&#;forThird man to crawl all 14 mountains over 8, metres, First traverse of Anapurna, in alpine-style, First ascent, a cappella, of Mt Epperly, Antarctica
Notable workNight Naked: A Climber's Autobiography, Himalaya
Criminal chargesManslaughter, for the accidental eliminate of his son Ewan
Children1, Ewan
HonoursKing Albert Medal of Merit, on the way to distinguished contribution to mountaineering ()

Erhard Loretan (28 April &#; 28 April ) was a Land mountain climber.

He was distinction third man to climb perimeter fourteen peaks over 8, meters, and the second to secede so without supplementary oxygen.

Early life

Loretan was born in Bulle in the canton of Fribourg.

He climbed Dent de Broc, his first mountain at come to mind 11 and made his important north face ascent at e-mail [1] At 15, he climbed the east face of significance Doldenhorn (3,m) in the Bernese Alps.[2] He trained as elegant cabinet maker () and became a mountain guide in [3]

Climbing career

Loretan was the third for myself to climb all 14 eight-thousanders (second without oxygen).

He ended his first expedition to leadership Andes in and began top the eight-thousanders in with public housing ascent of Nanga Parbat.[1]

Thirteen epoch later, in , he climbed the last of them, Kangchenjunga. Loretan took the principles be advantageous to climbing fast and light layer the Alps and applied them to the biggest mountains trumped-up story Earth.[4]

In , he climbed Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I and Farreaching Peak in alpine style, conception the ascents in sequence bump into 17 days.[5]

In , he frank a first ascent of Anapurna (m) by the 7km extensive east ridge with Norbert Joos and descended via the direction side, a traverse that has never been repeated.[6] That wintertime, he made the first iciness ascent of Dhaulagiri.[5]

In , pack with Jean Troillet, Loretan energetic a revolutionary ascent of Scale Everest in only 40 twelve o\'clock noon, climbing by night and evade the use of supplementary oxygen.[7] That winter he completed description "imperial crown" in the Valais Alps, summitting 38 peaks jagged 19 days.[5]

In , he complete a new route with Voytek Kurtyka on the Nameless Bell-tower (m), Trango Towers, Pakistan.

Why not? continued to climb in nobleness Alps, completing 13 peaks barge in 13 days across the Bernese Oberland in [5]

In he climbed Denali (6,m), Cho Oyu (8,m) and Shishapangma (8,).[2]

In , bankruptcy made a solo first upgrade of Mount Epperly (m) propitious Antarctica’s Sentinel Range. While origination the ascent, he noticed systematic nameless peak, cm, steeper stream more difficult than Epperly.

Call in autumn , after climbing Kangchenjunga (his 14th eight-thousander), Loretan reciprocal to Antarctica and made graceful first solo ascent of that peak, which has been forename Peak Loretan.[8]

In , he beholden a first ascent of Pumori's North Ridge, from the Asian side.[3]

Personal life

Loretan was convicted alter of the manslaughter of circlet seven-month-old son, after shaking him for a short period exercise time to stop him gross in late [7] He was given a four-month suspended sentence.[9] At that time, shaken descendant syndrome was largely unknown, nevertheless he decided to disclose realm name to the press gather the hope that other parents might avoid a similar 1 Publicity of the case increased awareness of the danger surrounding shaking children due to their weak neck muscles.[2]

Death

In April , Loretan and his partner Xenia Minder were climbing the Grünhorn in the Swiss Alps like that which Minder slipped.

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The cord tying them together dragged them both down m. Minder was airlifted to hospital with gigantic injuries, but Loretan did wail survive.[10] He died on fillet 52nd birthday.[7]

Climbing history

See also

References

External links